Table of Contents
Introduction
Ready to see the route? Then jump straight to the map.
Atmosphere
Baan Khrua, the village behind the Jim Thompson Silk Story, is a historic and increasingly hip neighbourhood nestled along the Saen Saep Canal in Bangkok. Unlike the gleaming skyscrapers and bustling tourist hubs, Baan Khrua retains a more laid-back, local charm. Traditional wooden houses line the canal banks, narrow winding alleyways create a labyrinthine atmosphere, and a strong sense of community binds the area together. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past. For those ready to dive into the street life on foot, remember to check my essential Bangkok walking safety guidelines before you head out.
Brief History of Baan Khrua
Baan Khrua was historically home to a community of Cham Muslim people, whose ancestors migrated from Cambodia and Vietnam. Silk weaving once thrived here, becoming a cherished tradition closely linked to the renowned Jim Thompson silk enterprise. His beautiful wooden home, which stands as a testament to this legacy, can still be visited on the opposite bank of the canal. Sadly, only one operational silk loom remains today.
What to expect in Baan Khrua
The lifeblood of Baan Khrua is the Saen Saep Canal, where public canal taxi boats zip along its murky waters. Consequently, these boats serve as a vital transportation link, constantly providing a backdrop to daily life. A great place to observe them is the Karemeen & Sobereen restaurant; here, you can relax over a coffee and some food. Then, as you venture deeper into the narrow alleys (and perhaps get a little lost), the city’s noise fades, replaced by the enticing aroma of home-cooked meals wafting from open doorways and neighbours casually chatting.
Baan Krua is a small, tightly knit community that most visitors walk straight past without knowing it’s there. This route takes you through its lanes and canalside paths, where daily life carries on much as it always has. It’s worth having your camera ready, there are some lovely, unposed moments to catch here, flagged with a camera emoji 📷 through the post.
Highlights
Superscript links indicate waypoints on the map below.
Gallery
To see more photographs from my wanderings around Bangkok and elsewhere, checkout my portfolio website.
Directions
This is a circular route starting and ending at the Ratchathewi BTS station and taking in an old silk factory (8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Mon to Sat), the lovely Piccolo Vicolo coffee shop (9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed Tue) and the local streets and alleys. Total distance is about 3km and further information on the route, including photos at key points, is in My Detailed Guide.
Map
This map lays out the full walk, with waypoints. Below is the key to the icons that appear in the map header.
By tapping these icons in the map header, you can view the legend or follow the route directly in Google Maps.
Route Directions in Detail
Full turn-by-turn directions and extra notes are waiting in the ‘Detailed Guide’ below.
Baan Khrua
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Wrapping up
It is but a short distance from the hustle and bustle of the city to the tranquility of Baan Khrua. They are indeed worlds apart and long may it remain that way. I hope you’ve enjoyed this walk and will join me on another one soon.
Jim Thompson Silk FAQ
Ratchathewi BTS station is one station north of Siam station on the Sukhumvit Line. Siam station is the interchange station between the Sukhumvit and Silom BTS lines. Therefore, there is easy access to Ratchathewi BTS station from anywhere on the Skytrain system.
This is a circular walk so it starts and finishes at Ratchathewi BTS station.
The silk factory is open 08:00-17:00 Mon to Sat. Note that the factory is in fact just a couple of small rooms in what looks like a house. This gives you an intimate view of the process of making silk products.
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