Lens Wanderings

Category: Explore

Discover Bangkok: Saen Saep Canal
Introduction

In Bangkok, you are never far from a canal, and on this interesting walk, you will explore the Saen Saep Canal (Khlong), famous for its high-speed boat taxis and, in the past, as a trading and transportation route.

You’ll discover several fascinating sights located either very close by or directly on its banks. We will begin in the charming Baan Khrua area (and if you’d like more detail on that unique spot, which is truly a hidden part of the city, see my ‘Hidden Bangkok – Baan Khrua‘ post). Along the way, prepare to experience some truly distinct locations, with clear directions provided at every turn.

At one point, you will actually cross over active train tracks – an uncommon experience for many of us, I’m sure! While either side of the tracks may appear a little dilapidated, it certainly possesses a unique character.

Your next stop is the bustling Mahanak Wholesale Fruit Market. This market has been a central hub for fresh produce distribution in Bangkok for many years. Note: it can be somewhat messy, especially on a rainy day, but it is definitely worth the effort to explore! The sight of large piles of fresh pineapples and melons is quite impressive.

Then, you can explore the lively Bobae Clothing Market. Historically, Bobae has been a significant traditional textile and clothing trading area. Unfortunately, these open-air alleyway businesses are reportedly being relocated to nearby shopping malls. The malls simply cannot replicate the unique atmosphere of these outdoor stalls, and you might even find some excellent deals among the wholesale and retail shops!

At the end of the walk, you will ride on the Saen Saep Canal Taxi back to central Bangkok.

So join me and explore the sights, sounds, and flavours of this off-the-beaten-path neighbourhood. Wander through alleys and streets, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.

Get your camera ready; there will be plenty to photograph. You never know what unique moments you will come across as you follow this route; look out for 📷 in the directions below. Let’s dive straight in.

Highlights
Directions

This route starts at the Ratchathewi BTS station and ends at the National Stadium BTS station, following the Saen Saep Canal for the most part. The first section to the Silk Loom (08:00-17:00 Mon to Sat) follows ‘Hidden Bangkok – Baan Khrua‘ with the directions repeated here. Total distance is about 4.5 km.

The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps.

The Silk Loom

Step 1

Make your way to Ratchathewi BTS station (on the Sukhumvit line, one stop north of Siam station) and take exit one.

Step 2

At the bottom of the exit steps, turn 180° and head south down the main road.

Step 3

After 30 m turn right down a side road.

Step 4

Walk about 200 m to a crossroads and turn left.¹

Step 5

After 100 m the lane narrows into an alley.² Continue straight ahead.

Step 6

After a further 100 m, you will reach the canal footpath. Turn right past the outdoor gym.

Step 7 📷

Keep your eyes open for a beautiful old wooden house on the right just up an alley.³

Step 8

After about 150 m you will see a footbridge⁴ over the canal and the Karemeen & Sobereen restaurant on the opposite side. This is a great place to stop for a while to watch the canal taxis moving along at some speed, creating large wakes behind them.

Step 9

After you pass the pedestrian bridge look for the fourth alley on the right with a mosaic number 9 on the ground at the entrance.

Step 10 📷

A short distance up this alley, you will find the silk workshop⁵ with the manually operated loom. Step inside to have a look (remember to take your shoes off). The loom is operated by a lovely lady, and she will work the machine, if she is not already doing so, to enable you to take photographs.

Train Tracks

Step 1

Come out of the silk loom workshop, turn right, and head back to the canal. Turn right along the canal path. After about 250 m, you’ll walk under a low road bridge.⁶ It’s pretty low, so watch your head!

Step 2

Continue for 250 m on the canal path. Immediately after passing under an elevated highway,⁷ turn right, away from the canal, and head up an alley.

Step 3

After 40 m, you’ll reach what looks like a dead-end. Turn left at this T-junction.

Step 4

Walk another 40 m, and you’ll come to a main road. Turn right and walk along the pavement.

Step 5

After 100 m, cross the road using the footbridge.⁸

Step 6

On the other side of the road, keep going in the same direction for
100 m, then turn left at Rama VI Soi 19.⁹

Step 7 📷

After about 300 m along this road, you’ll arrive at some train tracks.¹⁰ You are now roughly 1km north of Hua Lamphong station. If you’re hoping to see a train, check the s tation schedule, and remember to take care when crossing the lines. You might even spot some unusual sights as you cross!

Mahanak Wholesale Fruit Market

Step 1

Go straight across the railway lines and head down the narrow alleyway directly opposite.

Step 2 📷

Walk about 120 m, then follow the alley as it turns right. After 30 m, turn left, then turn right after another 20m. For a little while, the area might not look super inviting, but keep going for about 100 m. Then, turn left down any of the alleyways when you start seeing market stalls. Congratulations, you’re now in the Mahanak Wholesale Fruit Market!¹¹

Step 3

Wander around the market for a bit until you eventually emerge onto a street running parallel to a canal. Keep an eye out for Luk Luang Soi 2 as you exit the market.

Bobae Clothing Market

Step 1

Opposite Soi Luk Luang Soi 2, you’ll spot a footbridge. Cross over the canal here. On the other side, go over the main road, then turn left and over a side road. You’ll see clothing outlets lining the street. This is the start of the Bobae Clothing Market!

Step 2 📷

Continue about 200 m to the canal and turn right onto the canal footpath. Here there are more clothing shops and alleys¹² to explore, but afterwards, continue walking alongside the canal. Note: if you cross over the canal by the bridge at the corner, there are more clothing shops on the other side, but in my opinion, this area is not as interesting.

Saen Saep Canal Taxi

Step 1

After walking about 100 m, you’ll see a canal taxi pier, but keep going past it.

Step 2

Continue on, and in about 700 m, you’ll reach a road. Follow the path to the right, then go left up some steps to cross over the road. Be careful here, as there’s no pedestrian crossing. On the far side, go down the steps and continue along the canal path for 300 m, where you’ll find a couple of coffee shops. Go on, take a break – you deserve it!

Step 3 📷

Just after the cafés, you’ll see the Panfa Leelard canal taxi pier. This is the terminus for the taxi boat. At this point, you can either take the canal taxi back (see “Getting Home” below) or, before that, you could visit The Golden Mount, Mahakan Fort Park, and Jedi Cafe, which are just a short walk away. All three are marked on the map.

Getting Home

Board the canal taxi, and when the ticket conductor comes around, ask for Hua Chang Bridge. The fare is 12 baht. When the boat starts off, don’t worry if it seems to be going the wrong way! It will soon perform a three-point turn in the canal and head back the way you’ve been walking.

Watch out carefully for your destination. The pier where you want to disembark is just past Jim Thompson’s House on the right. When you get off, walk 20 m through the street food cafes, then turn right at the main road. You’ll see the Sky Train above you. Walk 100 m to the intersection and go up the steps to the National Stadium BTS station.

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Wrapping up

And there you have it! From the unique experience of crossing active train tracks to the vibrant chaos of the fruit and clothing markets, and finally, the exciting ride on the Saen Saep Canal Taxi itself – this walk truly offers a glimpse into an authentic, less-explored side of Bangkok. I hope these directions inspire you to step off the usual tourist path and discover these hidden gems for yourself. Happy exploring!

As always if you find any errors in this post I would be very grateful if you would drop me a comment below.

Best wishes
Derek
23 July 2025
Explore Khlong San’s Secrets
Introduction

Welcome, fellow explorers of Bangkok! If you’re seeking to explore a side of the city with authentic local life, rich history, and a vibrant blend of tradition and modernity, then you’ve come to the right place. Today, we’re diving deep into the captivating Khlong San area, a hidden gem nestled on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River.

Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, Khlong San offers a truly immersive experience, far from the typical tourist trails. Here you will discover ancient temples, bustling markets and charming old shophouses. From the delicious street food stalls that awaken your senses to the lively atmosphere of its riverside communities, Khlong San is a microcosm of Bangkok’s enduring charm.

So join me and explore the sights, sounds, and flavours of this off-the-beaten-path neighbourhood. Wander through alleys and streets, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.

Get your camera ready; there will be plenty to photograph. You never know what unique moments you will come across as you follow this route; look out for 📷 in the directions below. Let’s dive straight in.

Highlights
Directions

These directions follow the order of highlights above starting from Krung Thon Buri BTS station on the Gold Line. The Gold Line and the Silom Line conveniently interchange at Krung Thon Buri BTS station enabling access from anywhere on Bangkok’s BTS system. However you can equally well do this walk in reverse if you wish. The total walking distance is about 4 km.

The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps.

Lhong 1919

Step 1

If you arrive at Krung Thon Buri BTS station¹ on the Silom Line, follow the signs for ‘Sky Train Gold Line’. Go out through the Silom Line ticket barrier, then enter the ticket barrier for the Gold Line. Unless you have a Rabbit Card you will need to buy a separate flat fare ticket for 16 Baht.

Step 2 📷

The gold line is an automated mass transit railway which is quite fun to ride. There are only three stations. Stay on the train until the terminus at Khlong San station.²

Step 3

Take exit 2 from the station and at the bottom of the steps turn right 180°. Follow the pavement for about 100 m alongside a main road. Go past the traffic lights continuing slightly left for about 20m along a side road. Look out for this narrow alleyway on your left.³

Step 4

Suddenly you are in very local surroundings and the noise of the city fades away. Keep following the narrow alleyway past people’s homes.

Step 5

After about 120 m go straight ahead over the road to a wider alley. Continue for another 70 metres then turn left at a T-junction. Continue for 20 metres and follow the alley as it turns right.

Step 6

Continue for 50 m. By now you should see parallel white lines painted on the ground. Follow the alley as it turns left.

Step 7

Follow the white lines, turning left and right until you see a small bridge over a canal. Turn right over the bridge. Continue following the alleyway with the white lines.

Step 8

When you come to a road turn right and walk about 200 m until you reach the entrance to Lhong 1919⁴ between two old buildings (open Mon to Thu 08:00 to 18:00 and Fri to Sun 08:00 to 22:00).

Step 9 📷

Entrance to Lhong 1919 is free. There’s lots to explore here in this beautifully restored 19th-century Chinese mansion and warehouse complex on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. Unfortunately, since mid-2025, there is now a large hotel development on the site, although you can still visit the heritage buildings.

Din Daeng Road Street Market

Step 1

When you come out of Lhong 1919, turn left and walk back the way you came. After about 70 m, turn right down a narrow road under an archway and follow the white lines again.

Step 2

When you see an entrance to a temple, turn right and continue following the white lines over another small footbridge. Follow the white lines and turn left onto a narrow lane.

Step 3

Continue following the white lines along this lane for about 250 m. Along the way there is a small gym if you feel like some extra exercise!

Step 4

At the end the lane bends sharp right. Continue following the white lines.

Step 5

After 70 m, you will come to the bustling Din Daeng Road Street Market.⁵ Stalls selling street food and produce stretch left and right on the far side of the road. Enjoy exploring the market, but remember this point as you will need to go straight across to the opposite alley and continue following the white lines.

Soi Somdet Chao Phraya Old Warehouses

Step 1

After 40 m, stop following the white lines and go straight ahead at this point.

Step 2

After about 80 m you will come to what looks like a gate into a private yard, but in fact it is a thoroughfare.

Step 3

Go straight through and out the other side through another gate.

Step 4

Turn right out of the gate and follow the lane which takes you between the old warehouses on Soi Somdet Chao Phraya,⁶ most of which are still in use.

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Step 1

After about 200 m, go straight ahead under the arch and up the steps. You are now at the Chao Phraya River. Turn left.

Step 2 📷

Walk alongside the river until you reach a small park. You might be lucky and see some local people on the way, playing board games under a shelter.

Step 3

There are some interesting old buildings around the park that you might want to explore, but make sure you come out this exit and go through the old arched building.

Step 4 📷

Passing through the arch, you will see the interesting sight of a pot embedded in the roots of a tree.⁷

Step 5

After coming through the arched building, turn right around the top of the park and walk ahead about 50 m to the T junction. Turn left.

Step 6

Walk about 200 m along the alley (with interesting murals), then turn right at the end.

Step 7 📷

After 70 m turn right, although you might want to take a look at the arched entrance on your left first. This featured in a scene in the movie ‘Good Morning, Vietnam’ (time stamp 1:44:00).

Step 8

After turning right, walk about 50 m and on your left you will find the entrance to the beautiful Princess Mother Memorial Park⁸ (open daily 06:00 to 18:00). There is also a small museum in the park (open daily 08:30 to 16:30).

Step 9 📷

Explore the park at your leisure. It’s a lovely place to rest on a hot day and there is lots to see.

Tsai Eatery

Step 1

Come out of the park by the way you entered and turn left. A short distance down the road, you will see the car park entrance to the Tsai Eatery restaurant in front of you.⁹ Walk through the car park and you will find a lovely oasis on the Chao Phraya River (open daily 11:00 to 22:00).

Guan Yu Shrine

Step 1 📷

When you come out of the Tsai Eatery car park turn right, follow the access road as it bends to the right, and you will see the Guan Yu Shrine¹⁰ in front of you.

My Grandparent’s House

Step 1

As you go past the Guan Yu Shrine, you will see an old wooden house to the right. This is the delightful My Grandparent’s House (10:00 to 18:00, closed Wed).

Step 2 📷

Right on the river¹¹ and full of memorabilia, you can relax here with a coffee and a snack.

Chao Phraya Sky Park

Step 1

When you come out of My Grandparent’s House, retrace your steps about 50 m along the access road until it bends to the left. At this point cut across the grass slightly to the right.

Step 2

Walk 50 m down a wide block-paved area at the side of Princess Mother Memorial Park then turn left at the alleyway.

Step 3

Walk 80 m alongside the Princess Mother Memorial Park and follow the road right at a small temple. After 50 m turn left at the T-junction.
Continue 50 m and turn right at the crossroads.

Step 4

Go over the canal and ahead you will see a main road. Cross over the road and turn right. After about 50 m you will see some metal railings and a park on your left. Continue for 20 m to the park entrance.

Step 5

As you walk into the park, pass under the road bridge and ahead you will see the entrance to the Chao Phraya Sky Park.¹²

Step 6

Take the steps (or there is a lift) up to the Sky Park.

Step 7 📷

This really is a wonderful viewpoint with stunning views over the river and city. At sunset, you will likely find local people who often come here to relax. Originally planned as a rail bridge, it was abandoned in 1992 but was opened as a uniquely designed footbridge in 2020. This fantastic urban development is open daily from 05:00 to 20:00.

Getting home

Step 1

Continue over the Chao Phraya Sky Park bridge to the far side, down the steps and into another small park. Turn left and go under the road bridge. Follow the path for 20 m, turn left and go straight ahead out of the park entrance.
Turn left, walk about 100 m and cross over the main road to the yellow Memorial Bridge Pier building.¹³

Step 2

From here you can catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn Pier and interchange with the BTS Skytrain system (make sure to check the boat schedule). Alternatively this is a good location to find a taxi or use a ride hailing service.

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Wrapping up

This is one of my favourite lesser-known city routes in Bangkok. There’s so much to see and a lot of variety. I hope you get a chance to follow this walk and enjoy it as much as I have.

As always if you find any errors in this post I would be very grateful if you would drop me a comment below.

Best wishes
Derek

Princess Mother Memorial Park

My Grandparent’s House

Chao Phraya Sky Park
6 July 2025
Hidden Bangkok – Baan Khrua
Introduction

Atmosphere

Baan Khrua, a historic and increasingly hip neighbourhood nestled along the Saen Saep Canal in Bangkok, offers a unique blend of modernity and tradition. Unlike the gleaming skyscrapers and bustling tourist hubs, Baan Khrua retains a more laid-back, local charm. Traditional wooden houses line the canal banks, narrow winding alleyways create a labyrinthine atmosphere, and a strong sense of community binds the area together. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past.

Brief History

Historically, Baan Khrua was home to a community of Cham Muslim people, descendants of migrants from Cambodia and Vietnam. Silk weaving was once a cherished and vibrant tradition in the area, closely associated with the renowned Jim Thompson, whose beautiful wooden home stands as a testament to this legacy and can be visited on the opposite bank of the canal. Sadly, there is now only one remaining silk loom in operation.

What to expect

The lifeblood of Baan Khrua is the Saen Saep Canal, where public canal taxi boats zip along its murky waters. These boats serve as a vital transportation link, constantly providing a backdrop to daily life. As you venture deeper into the narrow alleys (and perhaps get a little lost), the city’s noise fades, replaced by the enticing aroma of home-cooked meals wafting from open doorways and neighbours chatting casually.

So join me and explore the sights, sounds, and flavours of this off-the-beaten-path neighbourhood. Wander through alleys and streets, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.

Get your camera ready; there will be plenty to photograph. You never know what unique moments you will come across as you follow this route; look out for 📷 in the directions below. Let’s dive straight in.

Highlights
Directions

This is a circular route starting and ending at the Ratchathewi BTS station and taking in an old silk factory (08:00-17:00 Mon to Sat), a lovely coffee shop (Piccolo Vicolo, 09:00-17:00 Wed to Mon) and the local streets and alleys. Total distance is about 3km.

The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps.

The Silk Loom

Step 1

Make your way to Ratchathewi BTS station (on the Sukhumvit line, one stop north of Siam station) and take exit one.

Step 2

At the bottom of the exit steps, turn 180° and head south down the main road.¹

Step 3

After 30 m turn right down a side road.²

Step 4

Walk about 200 m to a crossroads and turn left.³

Step 5

After 100 m the lane narrows into an alley.⁴ Continue straight ahead.

Step 6

After a further 100 m, you will reach the canal footpath. Turn right past the outdoor gym.⁵

Step 7 📷

Keep your eyes open for a beautiful old wooden house on the right just up an alley.⁶

Step 8 📷

After about 150 m you will see a footbridge⁷ over the canal and the Karemeen & Sobereen restaurant on the opposite side. This is a great place to stop for a while to watch the canal taxis moving along at some speed, creating large wakes behind them.

Step 9

After you pass the pedestrian bridge look for the fourth alley on the right with a mosaic number 9 on the ground at the entrance.⁸

Step 10 📷

A short distance up this alley, you will find the silk workshop⁹ with the manually operated loom. Step inside to have a look (remember to take your shoes off). The loom is operated by a lovely lady, and she will work the machine, if she is not already doing so, to enable you to take photographs.

Piccolo Vicolo Coffee Shop

Step 1

Come out of the silk workshop and turn left. Walk 30m and turn left again. Walk 10 m and turn right. After 30 m, at the next T junction, you can either turn right and explore the old alleys for a while before retracing your steps to the T junction or turn left and go straight ahead for about 100 m until you reach the junction shown here.¹⁰

Step 2

Turn right and walk alongside new-looking homes with grey doors.¹¹

Step 3

Follow the alley as it turns left and right. Look for the signs to the wonderful oasis of Piccolo Vicolo Coffee Shop.¹²

Step 4 📷

There is an outdoor space and very welcome indoor air-conditioned seating. The coffee shop is part of the GalileOasis creative hub set in a leafy green courtyard with a boutique hotel, craft shop, gallery and restaurant. A very relaxing place to rest for a while before moving on.

Return to the BTS station

Step 1

You are now going to make your way back to the Ratchathewi BTS station. Turn right out of the café and follow the alley left. Turn right at the T-junction, then after 30 m turn right again at the next T-junction¹³ (notice the helpful road sign in the photo).

Step 2

Walk straight ahead for about 150 m past the school on your right and metal-grilled homes on the left. Follow the road as it turns left.¹⁴

Step 3

Walk about 70 m to the crossroads.¹⁵ Here turn right and follow the road straight ahead. Along the way there are interesting workshops such as bike repair shops and textile businesses. After 200 m go straight over the crossroads.³ A further 200 m will take you to the main road² and the BTS station. Turn left and you will be back at the station exit where you started from.¹

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Wrapping up

It is but a short distance from the hustle and bustle of the city to the tranquility of Baan Khrua. They are indeed worlds apart and long may it remain that way. I hope you’ve enjoyed this walk and will join me on another one soon.

As always if you find any errors in this post I would be very grateful if you would drop me a comment below.

Best wishes
Derek
18 May 2025