Hidden Bangkok - Baan Khrua

Introduction

Atmosphere

Baan Khrua, a historic and increasingly hip neighbourhood nestled along the Saen Saep Canal in Bangkok, offers a unique blend of modernity and tradition. Unlike the gleaming skyscrapers and bustling tourist hubs, Baan Khrua retains a more laid-back, local charm. Traditional wooden houses line the canal banks, narrow winding alleyways create a labyrinthine atmosphere, and a strong sense of community binds the area together. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past.

Brief History

Historically, Baan Khrua was home to a community of Cham Muslim people, descendants of migrants from Cambodia and Vietnam. Silk weaving was once a cherished and vibrant tradition in the area, closely associated with the renowned Jim Thompson, whose beautiful wooden home stands as a testament to this legacy and can be visited on the opposite bank of the canal. Sadly, there is now only one remaining silk loom in operation.

What to expect

The lifeblood of Baan Khrua is the Saen Saep Canal, where public canal taxi boats zip along its murky waters. These boats serve as a vital transportation link, constantly providing a backdrop to daily life. As you venture deeper into the narrow alleys (and perhaps get a little lost), the city’s noise fades, replaced by the enticing aroma of home-cooked meals wafting from open doorways and neighbours chatting casually.

Exploring Baan Khrua involves wandering through its maze-like alleys, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.

Directions

This is a circular route starting and ending at the Ratchathewi BTS station and taking in an old silk factory (8-5 Mon to Sat), a lovely coffee shop (Piccolo Vicolo, 9-5 Wed to Mon) and the local streets and alleys. Total distance is about 3km.

The map at the end indicates most of the route except for alleys which Google was unable to follow. I’m sure you won’t have any trouble and in any case, you can deviate from this exact route if you wish and if you do get lost, find your way to the canal to get your bearings. The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps. Let’s dive straight in!

The silk loom

Step 1

Make your way to Ratchathewi BTS station (on the Sukhumvit line, one stop north of Siam station) and take exit one.

Step 2

At the bottom of the exit steps, turn 180° and head south down the main road.¹

Step 3

After about 100m, the main road starts to go over a bridge. At this point, bear right down the narrow road that runs parallel to the main road.²

Step 4

After about 50m, you will reach the canal. Turn right through the small gap in the metal railing and follow the concrete path by the side of the canal.³ Watch out for motorbikes!

Step 5

When I visited in early May 2025 they were widening the canal path and there were signs of other construction work. It looks like they might be gradually encroaching on this lovely area. Anyway, I ignored this sign next to an outdoor gym and kept following the canal without difficulty.

Step 6

You will almost certainly see the canal taxis, which move along at some speed, creating large wakes behind them. After you pass this pedestrian bridge⁴ look for the fourth alley on the right…

Step 7

There is a mosaic with the number 9 on the ground at the entrance.⁵

Step 8

A short distance up this alley, you will find the silk workshop⁶ with the manually operated loom. Step inside to have a look (remember to take your shoes off). The loom is operated by a lovely lady, and she will work the machine, if she is not already doing so, to enable you to take photographs.