Introduction
Atmosphere
Baan Khrua, a historic and increasingly hip neighbourhood nestled along the Saen Saep Canal in Bangkok, offers a unique blend of modernity and tradition. Unlike the gleaming skyscrapers and bustling tourist hubs, Baan Khrua retains a more laid-back, local charm. Traditional wooden houses line the canal banks, narrow winding alleyways create a labyrinthine atmosphere, and a strong sense of community binds the area together. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past.
Brief History
Historically, Baan Khrua was home to a community of Cham Muslim people, descendants of migrants from Cambodia and Vietnam. Silk weaving was once a cherished and vibrant tradition in the area, closely associated with the renowned Jim Thompson, whose beautiful wooden home stands as a testament to this legacy and can be visited on the opposite bank of the canal. Sadly, there is now only one remaining silk loom in operation.
What to expect
The lifeblood of Baan Khrua is the Saen Saep Canal, where public canal taxi boats zip along its murky waters. These boats serve as a vital transportation link, constantly providing a backdrop to daily life. As you venture deeper into the narrow alleys (and perhaps get a little lost), the city’s noise fades, replaced by the enticing aroma of home-cooked meals wafting from open doorways and neighbours chatting casually.
So join me and explore the sights, sounds, and flavours of this off-the-beaten-path neighbourhood. Wander through alleys and streets, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.
Get your camera ready; there will be plenty to photograph. You never know what unique moments you will come across as you follow this route; look out for 📷 in the directions below. Let’s dive straight in.
Highlights
Directions
This is a circular route starting and ending at the Ratchathewi BTS station and taking in an old silk factory (08:00-17:00 Mon to Sat), a lovely coffee shop (Piccolo Vicolo, 09:00-17:00 Wed to Mon) and the local streets and alleys. Total distance is about 3km.
The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps.
The Silk Loom
Step 1
Make your way to Ratchathewi BTS station (on the Sukhumvit line, one stop north of Siam station) and take exit one.
Step 2
At the bottom of the exit steps, turn 180° and head south down the main road.1
Step 3
After 30 m turn right down a side road.2
Step 4
Walk about 200 m to a crossroads and turn left.3
Step 5
After 100 m the lane narrows into an alley.4 Continue straight ahead.
Step 6
After a further 100 m, you will reach the canal footpath. Turn right past the outdoor gym.5
Step 7 📷
Keep your eyes open for a beautiful old wooden house on the right just up an alley.6
Step 8 📷
After about 150 m you will see a footbridge7 over the canal and the Karemeen & Sobereen restaurant on the opposite side. This is a great place to stop for a while to watch the canal taxis moving along at some speed, creating large wakes behind them.
Step 9
After you pass the pedestrian bridge look for the fourth alley on the right with a mosaic number 9 on the ground at the entrance.8
Step 10 📷
A short distance up this alley, you will find the silk workshop9 with the manually operated loom. Step inside to have a look (remember to take your shoes off). The loom is operated by a lovely lady, and she will work the machine, if she is not already doing so, to enable you to take photographs.
Piccolo Vicolo Coffee Shop
Step 1
Come out of the silk workshop and turn left. Walk 30m and turn left again. Walk 10 m and turn right. After 30 m, at the next T junction, you can either turn right and explore the old alleys for a while before retracing your steps to the T junction or turn left and go straight ahead for about 100 m until you reach the junction shown here.10
Step 2
Turn right and walk alongside new-looking homes with grey doors.11
Step 3
Follow the alley as it turns left and right. Look for the signs to the wonderful oasis of Piccolo Vicolo Coffee Shop.12
Step 4 📷
There is an outdoor space and very welcome indoor air-conditioned seating. The coffee shop is part of the GalileOasis creative hub set in a leafy green courtyard with a boutique hotel, craft shop, gallery and restaurant. A very relaxing place to rest for a while before moving on.
Return to the BTS station
Step 1
You are now going to make your way back to the Ratchathewi BTS station. Turn right out of the café and follow the alley left. Turn right at the T-junction, then after 30 m turn right again at the next T-junction13 (notice the helpful road sign in the photo).
Step 2
Walk straight ahead for about 150 m past the school on your right and metal-grilled homes on the left. Follow the road as it turns left.14
Step 3
Walk about 70 m to the crossroads.15 Here turn right and follow the road straight ahead. Along the way there are interesting workshops such as bike repair shops and textile businesses. After 200 m go straight over the crossroads.3 A further 200 m will take you to the main road2 and the BTS station. Turn left and you will be back at the station exit where you started from.1
Map
Wrapping up
It is but a short distance from the hustle and bustle of the city to the tranquility of Baan Khrua. They are indeed worlds apart and long may it remain that way. I hope you’ve enjoyed this walk and will join me on another one soon.
As always if you find any errors in this post I would be very grateful if you would drop me a comment below.
Best wishes
Derek
Leave a Reply