Thon Buri

Introduction

The Thon Buri District

Explore Bangkok’s Thon Buri district, a fascinating area that offers a glimpse into the city’s past, distinct from the more bustling east side of the river. Historically an independent city and briefly the capital of Siam, it retains a more relaxed, residential feel, with a network of ancient canals (khlongs) that once earned Bangkok its “Venice of the East” nickname.

Stepping into this historic district can be like traveling back in time. It is a place where small, traditional communities, some with roots stretching back centuries, coexist, showcasing the unique blend of Thai and European influences.

Thon Buri’s charm is also in its lesser-known, authentic markets. Unlike the larger, more tourist-oriented ones, these local hubs are simply part of daily life. For a genuine experience, you can find vibrant street markets like the one near the Wutthakat BTS station, where vendors spill out onto the pavement with their goods, creating a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells.

Exploring Bangkok’s Thon Buri district by foot rather than longtail boat reveals its true character. The narrow, winding alleys and footpaths lead to hidden temples, small cafes, and traditional wooden houses on stilts. These special spots are often missed by those who stick to the main attractions, but they are where the real, unhurried rhythm of the city can be felt.

Talat Phlu Market

Bangkok’s Talat Phlu Market is a living example of the area’s rich history and vibrant street life. Far from the main tourist circuits, this historic community, located just a short walk from the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) station of the same name, is a paradise for food lovers and a window into a more traditional way of life.

The market’s name, “Talat Phlu,” translates to “betel market,” indicating it’s past as a major trading hub for betel leaves and nuts. Today, that trade has been replaced by street food stalls, many of which have been passed down through generations. These culinary legacies are what give Talat Phlu its unique charm.

Its not a large market but the air is thick with the tantalizing smells of decades-old recipes. You can find everything from savory dishes like crispy pork with rice and rich, flavorful braised beef noodles to an extensive array of traditional Thai desserts. Many of these sweets, like coconut ice cream with frozen egg yolk, are not easily found elsewhere and are a point of pride for the vendors who make them.

Giant Golden Buddha

The most prominent and breathtaking landmark on the edge of Thon Buri district is undoubtedly the magnificent Phra Buddha Dhammakāya Thepmongkhon, more commonly known as the Great Buddha of Paknam or Giant Golden Buddha. This colossal statue is located within the grounds of Wat Pak Nam Phasi Charoen, a revered royal temple with a long history as a major center for Buddhist meditation.

Rising to an immense height of 69 metres, this is one of the tallest Buddha statues in Thailand. Its towering presence is a sight to behold, dominating the skyline (message me for locations) and visible from a great distance. The statue depicts the Lord Buddha seated in the meditation posture, and the elegant form and serene expression command reverence and awe.

The creation of the statue was a monumental project, built in part to honour Luang Pu Sodh Candasaro, the highly respected abbot of Wat Pak Nam who passed away in 1959. The construction took approximately four years and was completed in June 2021. It serves as both a powerful symbol of faith and a modern landmark that continues to draw devotees and visitors alike. When viewed from the Khlong Dan canal or from the nearby Talat Phlu community, the Great Buddha’s golden silhouette stands as a tranquil, spiritual beacon in the heart of this historic district.

What to expect

Bangkok’s Thon Buri district is a hidden gem waiting to be explored, offering much more than the famous Giant Golden Buddha statue. It’s a treasure trove of local railways, bustling markets, and a labyrinth of hidden alleys and lanes that reveal the city’s true heart.

So join me and explore the sights, sounds, and flavours of this off-the-beaten-path neighbourhood. Wander through alleys and streets, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.

Get your camera ready! You never know what unique moments you will come across. This route offers several photographic opportunities highlighted by the camera emoji 📷 throughout the post. Let’s dive straight in.

Highlights

Superscript links indicate waypoints on the map below.

• Local market¹
• Walking the tracks⁴
• Talat Phlu Market⁵
• Giant Golden Buddha⁷

Directions

This circular route starts and ends at Wutthakat BTS station.

From the station, a walk of a few hundred metres will lead you to the local market 📷. Afterward, you will catch your first glimpse of the railway as you cross the Wongwian Yai to Mae Khlong railway line 📷 and enter a network of alleys. A walk alongside a canal will take you back to the railway and over a railway bridge 📷. Continue along the railway tracks to Talat Phlu 📷.

Walking west from the market will lead you to the viewpoint for the Giant Golden Buddha 📷. From there, you will head back through more streets and alleys to Wutthakat BTS station. The total distance is about 5 km.

Map

The following map shows the entire route, with highlights and reference points to help you stay on track.

To view the map legend or follow the route in Google Maps, tap these icons in the map header.

If you’d like more detail on the route, download my step-by-step directions. They include photographs and cross-references to key points on the map.

As you follow this route, you’ll cross and walk alongside railway tracks. Please be aware of your safety, as the railway carriages overhang the narrow-gauge track by at least 1 meter on either side. Although trains give a warning as they pass through residential areas, you’ll need to move back a few meters from the track when one is approaching. For your convenience, here is the schedule for trains arriving and departing from Wongwian Yai Station, located just a few kilometers from Talat Phlu.

Wrapping up

In a city defined by its energetic pace, Bangkok’s Thon Buri district offers a beautiful and necessary contrast. It’s a place where you can slow down and discover the true rhythm of daily life, from the timeless traditions of the Talat Phlu Market to the serene, spiritual presence of the Great Buddha of Paknam. By stepping off the beaten path and into its winding alleys, you’ll find that Thon Buri isn’t just a district – it’s a living museum and a thriving community that keeps the authentic heart of Bangkok beating strong. It’s a reminder that the most rewarding journeys are often the ones that enable us to explore away from the main routes.

As always if you find any errors in this post I would be very grateful if you would drop me a comment below.

Best wishes
Derek