The dark interior of a soy sauce factory in hidden Bangkok, illuminated by a single lightbulb with a man stooping over working

Introduction

I know some of you just want the directions. So skip the introduction and view the map.

The Soy Sauce Factory

Hau Yong Seng (sometimes spelled ‘Hao Yong Seng’) soy sauce factory, is a historically significant, family-run business in Bangkok, producing homemade soy sauce. Operating for over 100 years and spanning several generations, this hundred-year-old establishment is a true gem. A rare surviving example of traditional craftsmanship, just waiting to be explored.

The factory (open 08:00-18:00 Mon to Sat) resembles a large house. Renowned for maintaining its original recipe the owners use a slow, time-honoured soy sauce production process. A single batch can take up to six months to complete. The natural fermentation methods often involve exposure to the sun. As far as is known, it remains the only homemade soy sauce producer in Bangkok. Therefore underscoring its unique and preserved heritage.

Hau Yong Seng is situated on the Bangkok Yai Canal (Khlong Bangkok Yai), in an area that was once a vibrant economic hub. Historically, Khlong Bang Luang was the original name for this same waterway, a name still used today when referring to the community along its banks.

The Café

In recent years, a portion of the old soy sauce factory has been transformed into the chic Hau Yong Seng Café (09:30-21:00 every day). Here, patrons can enjoy a wide variety of drinks and meals, some featuring their distinctive soy sauce. While the café sometimes attracts a younger crowd keen on photographing themselves and their refreshments, most visitors tend to stay within the café’s modern confines, rarely venturing into the working factory area itself.

The Journey

The walk to the Hau Yong Seng Soy Sauce factory, traversing both the Bangkok Yai and Thon Buri Districts, is an adventure in itself. It leads you through a captivating network of side alleys and lanes, where you’ll discover a slice of authentic Bangkok. Here, residential homes, some beautifully preserved old wooden structures, stand beside a variety of small, independent businesses—from textile workshops to busy motorbike repair shops. The route further enriches your experience by guiding you through a charming Muslim quarter, featuring a serene mosque, and even crosses the railway line to Mae Khlong.  The train schedule for Wongwian Yai SRT Station might give you an opportunity to photograph a train squeezing between the trees and houses. 📷 This all combines to create an unforgettable insight into the city’s unique atmosphere and its people’s culture.

I hope you will join me in exploring the sights and sounds of this off-the-beaten-path neighbourhood. Wander through the alleys and streets. Witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails. However, safety is always the top priority! I strongly recommend reading my page on staying safe while walking in Bangkok.

Get your camera ready! You never know what unique moments you will come across. This route offers several photographic opportunities. These are highlighted by the camera emoji 📷 throughout the post. So let’s dive straight in.

Highlights

  • Walking through Bangkok Yai District
  • Hau Yong Seng Café
  • Hau Yong Seng Soy Sauce Factory
  • Train tracks outside Wongwian Yai Station
  • Walking through Thon Buri District

Directions

This route starts at Itsaraphap MRT station and ends at Pho Nimit BTS station. For the most part, you will be walking along narrow lanes and alleys with many interesting side turnings to explore if you wish. Roughly halfway there is a short section following a main road along a bridge over the Khlong Bangkok Yai, and although this is noisy, there are some lovely views along the canal. The total distance is about 4.5 km.

Map

The following map shows the entire route, with highlights and reference points to help you stay on track.

To view the map legend or follow the route in Google Maps, tap these icons in the map header.

View the map legend.

Follow the route in Google Maps.

Detailed Guide

For comprehensive directions and additional information, click ‘Detailed Guide’ below.

Thumbnail image for the soya sauce factory detailed guide

Explore Bangkok – Soy Sauce Factory

Detailed Guide

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Wrapping up

Ultimately, this journey was more than just a tour of a soya sauce factory; it was a layered experience that captured the true essence of two of Bangkok’s neighbourhoods. The rich, salty aroma of fermenting soybeans soon gave way to the scent of coffee and food from the café, all set against a backdrop of deep-rooted traditions.

Walking through the local streets and winding alleyways, each step revealed a new story—a bustling food stall, a family gathered outside a home, a splash of vibrant street art, and the thrilling sight of trains passing impossibly close by. This was a glimpse into the heart of Bangkok, a city where industrial history, modern life, and a strong sense of community exist side by side, creating a truly unforgettable tapestry of sights, sounds, and flavours.

As always, if you find any errors in this post, I would be very grateful if you would reach out to me. You can drop a comment below, use the contact form, or email me at lens_wanderings@icloud.com.

Best wishes
Derek

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