Table of Contents
Introduction
Charoen Krung Road is a major artery in Bangkok, built between 1862 and 1864. Significantly, it was the first road in Thailand to be constructed using modern methods. Today, this historic Bangkok road runs for many kilometers, passing through both Chinatown and the vibrant Bangrak district. Its construction inevitably marked a major shift in Bangkok’s urban development. Transport by water was gradually replaced by land and the decline of Bangkok’s canals began. Although Charoen Krung served as the city’s main street up to the early 20th century, it still remains home to many historic shophouses and neighborhoods.
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What to expect: When to go
This post guides you through the Bangrak section of Charoen Krung Road, exploring its fascinating side streets and hidden alleys. The route will take in unusual sights, fantastic eateries, and secluded bars. Therefore, you can expect to see a very different side of the area depending on the time of day that you visit. However, day or night, there is likely to be a photograph around every corner!
For instance, if you walk early in the morning, you will find the markets and street food vendors 📷 particularly active. The vendors are busy serving local commuters, with smoke rising from fried food as takeaway meals are efficiently prepared and sealed in the classic Thai plastic bag wrapped with an elastic band. Alternatively, later in the day and at night, the bars and restaurants are probably at their best.
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No matter when you go, make sure you look up! Historic Bangkok buildings, with decorative balconies and shuttered windows, 📷 are nearly everywhere along Charoen Krung Road. In the side streets, look out for a heritage shophouse which is now an Airbnb.
To help you navigate, the map shows two sets of waypoints: one for general sightseeing and one for restaurants and bars. For my relationship with bars and restaurants mentioned in this post, please see my Non-Affiliate Disclosure.
Historic Bangkok: Religion and Architecture
The Bangrak section of Charoen Krung Road is one of the most historically rich parts of Bangkok, with several centuries of trade and religious diversity on display.
My sightseeing list starts near the river with the stunning Wat Yannawa (sometimes called the boat temple due to the large concrete boat structure)📷. Further on is the remarkable Wat Suan Phlu—the red temple known for the large fish pond under one of its buildings 📷. Both of these, of course, showcase Thai Buddhism.
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As you move along, you will discover a fascinating contrast in religious landmarks such as the Assumption Cathedral 📷. The original structure for the cathedral was completed in 1821, though the current Romanesque-style building was largely reconstructed around 1910–1918. The area is also home to the Haroon Mosque, which was first established as a wooden structure in 1837 by an Indonesian-Arab trader.
Nearby, you can find the French Embassy building 📷, completed in 2015. With its striking contemporary architecture, it stands in stark contrast to the surrounding historic Bangkok buildings.
Finally, a major architectural highlight is the Grand Postal Building 📷, a magnificent example of Art Deco design that opened in 1940. The interior is well worth seeing (09:00 – 18:00 Mon to Fri, 09:00 – 16:00 Sat and Sun).
From Street Food to Chic Bars
This route is truly defined by its culinary landscape. Ma! Bangrak Bangkok Night Market, located at the back and side of the Central Department Store building, is an excellent place to begin your gastronomic adventure. The indoor food court is open daily from 11:00 AM to midnight. Additionally, there are street food stalls that open early in the evening, with the peak time around 6:00 PM to 7:00 PM when local people are returning home.
When exploring the side streets, you will find several local legends and new favorites. Sor Boonprakobpanich Desert Shop, founded in 1939, is a must-visit for traditional Thai desserts (08:30 – 17:30, closed Sun). In addition, you can grab a quick, cheap bite at Nariwat Boat Noodle (11:00 – 19:30). A novelty is to enjoy classic Thai roti cooked in an alleyway at Khun Mai Roti (05:00 – 14:00, closed Mon).
For a sit-down meal, consider the famous Baan Phad Thai (11:00 – 22:00)or Harmonique Restaurant (11:00 – 22:00, closed Sun) set in a beautiful heritage building. For those seeking vegetarian and vegan options, stop by Broccoli Revolution, which features an interesting refurbished interior terrace (11:00 – 14:30 and 17:00 – 21:00 Tue to Sun, closed Mon). Alternatively, for drinks, the nightlife includes the secluded Doma Bar (18:00 – 02:00) and Siwilai Sound Club (18:00 – 01:00, closed Mon and Tue). For a riverside location you can’t beat, Jack’s Bar (11:00 – 00:00).
So join me and explore the sights, sounds, and flavours of Charoen Krung Road as it passes through Bangrak. Get your camera ready! You never know what unique moments you will come across. This route offers several photographic opportunities highlighted by the camera emoji 📷 throughout the post. Let’s dive straight in.
Directions
Conveniently, Saphan Taksin Skytrain station exit 4 leads you directly onto Charoen Krung Road in the heart of historic Bangkok. If you prefer, you can follow the route on the map and end up back at the Skytrain station. Alternatively, especially if you’re staying in the area, you could simply join the route at the most convenient location on the map and visit the places that interest you the most.
The city’s vibrant energy is intoxicating, but like any major metropolis, it pays to be prepared. Find important advice in my dedicated Bangkok safety guide.
Map
The following map shows the entire route, with a legend divided into ‘sightseeing’ and ‘bars and restaurants’.
To view the map legend or follow the route in Google Maps, tap these icons in the map header.
View the map legend.
Follow the route in Google Maps.
Wrapping up
From the historic, shophouse-lined Charoen Krung Road to the quiet alleyways hiding incredible street food, the Bangrak district offers an authentic and diverse slice of historic Bangkok. Whether you are tracking the city’s architectural past or simply chasing the perfect bowl of boat noodles, this self-guided route gives you a chance to slow down and truly experience the neighborhood’s unique blend of cultures. Grab your map and set out to explore this fascinating and flavorful corner of the city.
As always, if you find any errors in this post, I would be very grateful if you would reach out to me. You can drop a comment below, use the contact form, or email me at lens_wanderings@icloud.com.
Best wishes
Derek
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