Lens Wanderings

Author: Derek

Explore Khlong San’s Secrets
Introduction

Welcome, fellow explorers of Bangkok! If you’re seeking to explore a side of the city with authentic local life, rich history, and a vibrant blend of tradition and modernity, then you’ve come to the right place. Today, we’re diving deep into the captivating Khlong San area, a hidden gem nestled on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River.

Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, Khlong San offers a truly immersive experience, far from the typical tourist trails. Here you will discover ancient temples, bustling markets and charming old shophouses. From the delicious street food stalls that awaken your senses to the lively atmosphere of its riverside communities, Khlong San is a microcosm of Bangkok’s enduring charm.

Join me as we uncover the sights, sounds, and flavours of this incredible neighbourhood, and discover why the Khlong San area is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience the true heart of Bangkok. Get your camera ready there will be plenty to photograph. Let’s dive straight in.

Highlights
- Lhong 1919 riverside Thai-Chinese heritage location
- Din Daeng Road Street Market
- Soi Somdet Chao Phraya Old Warehouses
- Princess Mother Memorial Park
- Tsai Eatery
- Guan Yu Shrine
- My Grandparent’s House
- Chao Phraya Sky Park
Directions

These directions follow the order of highlights above starting from Krung Thon Buri BTS station on the Gold Line. The Gold Line and the Silom Line conveniently interchange at Krung Thon Buri BTS station enabling access from anywhere on Bangkok’s BTS system. However you can equally well do this walk in reverse if you wish. The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps. The total walking distance is about 4 km.

Lhong 1919

Step 1

If you arrive at Krung Thon Buri BTS station¹ on the Silom Line, follow the signs for ‘Sky Train Gold Line’. Go out through the Silom Line ticket barrier, then enter the ticket barrier for the Gold Line. Unless you have a Rabbit Card you will need to buy a separate flat fare ticket for 16 Baht.

Step 2

The gold line is an automated mass transit railway which is quite fun to ride. There are only three stations. Stay on the train until the terminus at Khlong San station.²

Step 3

Take exit 2 from the station and at the bottom of the steps turn right 180°. Follow the pavement for about 100 m alongside a main road. Go past the traffic lights continuing slightly left for about 50m along a side road. Look out for this narrow alleyway on your left.³

Step 4

Suddenly you are in very local surroundings and the noise of the city fades away. Keep following the narrow alleyway past people’s homes.

Step 5

After about 50 m go straight ahead over the road to a wider alley. Continue for another 50 metres then turn left at a T-junction. Continue for 20 metres and follow the alley as it turns right.

Step 6

Continue for 50 metres. By now you should see parallel white lines painted on the ground. Follow the alley as it turns left.

Step 7

Follow the white lines, turning left and right until you see a small bridge over a canal. Turn right over the bridge. Continue following the alleyway with the white lines.

Step 8

When you come to a road turn right and walk about 100 m until you reach the entrance to Lhong 1919⁴ between two old buildings (open Mon to Thu 08:00 to 18:00 and Fri to Sun 08:00 to 22:00).

Step 9

Entrance to Lhong 1919 is free. There’s lots to explore here in this beautifully restored 19th-century Chinese mansion and warehouse complex on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. Unfortunately, since mid-2025, there is now a large hotel development on the site, although you can still visit the heritage buildings.

Din Daeng Road Street Market

Step 1

When you come out of Lhong 1919, turn left and walk back the way you came. After about 50 m, turn right down a narrow road under an archway and follow the white lines again.

Step 2

When you see an entrance to a temple, turn right and continue following the white lines over another small footbridge. Follow the white lines and turn left onto a narrow lane.

Step 3

Continue following the white lines along this lane for about 200 m. Along the way there is a small gym if you feel like some extra exercise!

Step 4

At the end the lane bends sharp right. Continue following the white lines.

Step 5

After 50 m, you will come to the bustling Din Daeng Road Street Market.⁵ Stalls selling street food and produce stretch left and right on the far side of the road. Enjoy exploring the market, but remember this point as you will need to go straight across to the opposite alley and continue following the white lines.

Soi Somdet Chao Phraya Old Warehouses

Step 1

After 20 m, stop following the white lines and go straight ahead at this point.

Step 2

After about 50 m you will come to what looks like a gate into a private yard, but in fact it is a thoroughfare.

Step 3

Go straight through and out the other side through another gate.

Step 4

Turn right out of the gate and follow the lane which takes you between the old warehouses on Soi Somdet Chao Phraya,⁶ most of which are still in use.

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Step 1

After about 200 m, go straight ahead under the arch and up the steps. You are now at the Chao Phraya River. Turn left.

Step 2

Walk alongside the river until you reach a small park. You might be lucky and see some local people on the way, playing board games under a shelter.

Step 3

There are some interesting old buildings around the park that you might want to explore, but make sure you come out this exit and go through the old arched building.

Step 4

Passing through the arch, you will see the interesting sight of a pot embedded in the roots of a tree.⁷

Step 5

After coming through the arched building, turn right around the top of the park and walk ahead about 50 m to the T junction. Turn left.

Step 6

Walk about 200 m along the alley (with interesting murals), then turn right at the end.

Step 7

After 100 m turn right, although you might want to take a look at the arched entrance on your left first. This featured in a scene in the movie ‘Good Morning, Vietnam’ (time stamp 1:44:00).

Step 8

After turning right, walk about 50 m and on your left you will find the entrance to the beautiful Princess Mother Memorial Park⁸ (open daily 06:00 to 18:00). There is also a small museum in the park (open daily 08:30 to 16:30).

Step 9

Explore the park at your leisure. It’s a lovely place to rest on a hot day and there is lots to see.

Tsai Eatery

Step 1

Come out of the park by the way you entered and turn left. A short distance down the road, you will see the car park entrance to the Tsai Eatery restaurant in front of you.⁹ Walk through the car park and you will find a lovely oasis on the Chao Phraya River (open daily 11:00 to 22:00).

Guan Yu Shrine

Step 1

When you come out of the Tsai Eatery car park turn right, follow the access road as it bends to the right, and you will see the Guan Yu Shrine¹⁰ in front of you.

My Grandparent’s House

Step 1

As you go past the Guan Yu Shrine, you will see an old wooden house to the right. This is the delightful My Grandparent’s House right on the river.¹¹ Full of memorabilia, you can relax here with a coffee and a snack (10:00 to 18:00, closed Wed).
.

Chao Phraya Sky Park

Step 1

When you come out of My Grandparent’s House, retrace your steps about 50m along the access road until it bends to the left. At this point cut across the grass slightly to the right.

Step 2

Walk 50 m down a wide block-paved area at the side of Princess Mother Memorial Park then turn left at the alleyway.

Step 3

Walk 100 m alongside the Princess Mother Memorial Park and follow the road right at a small temple. After 50 m turn left at the T-junction.
Continue 50 m and turn right at the crossroads.

Step 4

Go over the canal and ahead you will see a main road. Cross over the road and turn right. After about 50m you will see some metal railings and a park on your left. Continue for 20m to the park entrance.

Step 5

As you walk into the park, pass under the road bridge and ahead you will see the entrance to the Chao Phraya Sky Park.¹²

Step 6

Take the steps (or there is a lift) up to the Sky Park.

Step 7

This really is a wonderful viewpoint with stunning views over the river and city. At sunset, you will likely find local people who often come here to relax. Originally planned as a rail bridge, it was abandoned in 1992 but was opened as a uniquely designed footbridge in 2020. This fantastic urban development is open daily from 05:00 to 20:00.

Getting home

Step 1

Continue over the Chao Phraya Sky Park bridge to the far side, down the steps and into another small park. Turn left and go under the road bridge. Follow the path for 20 m, turn left and go straight ahead out of the park entrance.
Turn left, walk about 100 m and cross over the main road to the yellow Memorial Bridge Pier building.¹³

Step 2

From here you can catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn Pier and interchange with the BTS Skytrain system (make sure to check the boat schedule). Alternatively this is a good location to find a taxi or use a ride hailing service.

Map

Wrapping up

This is one of my favourite lesser-known city routes in Bangkok. There’s so much to see and a lot of variety. I hope you get a chance to follow this walk and enjoy it as much as I have.

Best wishes
Derek
July 6, 2025
Hidden Bangkok – Baan Khrua

Introduction

Atmosphere

Baan Khrua, a historic and increasingly hip neighbourhood nestled along the Saen Saep Canal in Bangkok, offers a unique blend of modernity and tradition. Unlike the gleaming skyscrapers and bustling tourist hubs, Baan Khrua retains a more laid-back, local charm. Traditional wooden houses line the canal banks, narrow winding alleyways create a labyrinthine atmosphere, and a strong sense of community binds the area together. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past.

Brief History

Historically, Baan Khrua was home to a community of Cham Muslim people, descendants of migrants from Cambodia and Vietnam. Silk weaving was once a cherished and vibrant tradition in the area, closely associated with the renowned Jim Thompson, whose beautiful wooden home stands as a testament to this legacy and can be visited on the opposite bank of the canal. Sadly, there is now only one remaining silk loom in operation.

What to expect

The lifeblood of Baan Khrua is the Saen Saep Canal, where public canal taxi boats zip along its murky waters. These boats serve as a vital transportation link, constantly providing a backdrop to daily life. As you venture deeper into the narrow alleys (and perhaps get a little lost), the city’s noise fades, replaced by the enticing aroma of home-cooked meals wafting from open doorways and neighbours chatting casually.

Exploring Baan Khrua involves wandering through its maze-like alleys, where you can witness a slower pace of life, connect with the local culture, and find a quieter, more authentic hidden Bangkok away from the main tourist trails.

Directions

This is a circular route starting and ending at the Ratchathewi BTS station and taking in an old silk factory (8-5 Mon to Sat), a lovely coffee shop (Piccolo Vicolo, 9-5 Wed to Mon) and the local streets and alleys. Total distance is about 3km.

The map at the end indicates most of the route except for alleys which Google was unable to follow. I’m sure you won’t have any trouble and in any case, you can deviate from this exact route if you wish and if you do get lost, find your way to the canal to get your bearings. The superscript numbers in the text below link to the map at the end with a QR code if you wish to follow the route on Google Maps. Let’s dive straight in!

The silk loom

Step 1

Make your way to Ratchathewi BTS station (on the Sukhumvit line, one stop north of Siam station) and take exit one.

Step 2

At the bottom of the exit steps, turn 180° and head south down the main road.¹

Step 3

After about 100m, the main road starts to go over a bridge. At this point, bear right down the narrow road that runs parallel to the main road.²

Step 4

After about 50m, you will reach the canal. Turn right through the small gap in the metal railing and follow the concrete path by the side of the canal.³ Watch out for motorbikes!

Step 5

When I visited in early May 2025 they were widening the canal path and there were signs of other construction work. It looks like they might be gradually encroaching on this lovely area. Anyway, I ignored this sign next to an outdoor gym and kept following the canal without difficulty.

Step 6

You will almost certainly see the canal taxis, which move along at some speed, creating large wakes behind them. After you pass this pedestrian bridge⁴ look for the fourth alley on the right…

Step 7

There is a mosaic with the number 9 on the ground at the entrance.⁵

Step 8

A short distance up this alley, you will find the silk workshop⁶ with the manually operated loom. Step inside to have a look (remember to take your shoes off). The loom is operated by a lovely lady, and she will work the machine, if she is not already doing so, to enable you to take photographs.

Piccolo Vicolo Coffee Shop

Step 1

Come out of the silk workshop and turn left. Continue along the alley, turn left at the end, and go on to the next T junction. Here you can either turn right and explore the old alleys for a while before retracing your steps to the T junction or turn left and go straight ahead until you reach the junction shown here.⁷

Step 2

Turn right and walk alongside new-looking homes with grey doors.⁸

Step 3

Follow the alley as it turns left and right. Look for the signs to the wonderful oasis of Piccolo Vicolo Coffee Shop.⁹

Step 4

There is an outdoor space and very welcome indoor air-conditioned seating. The coffee shop is part of the GalileOasis creative hub set in a leafy green courtyard with a boutique hotel, craft shop, gallery and restaurant. A very relaxing place to rest for a while before moving on.

Return to the BTS station

Step 1

You are now going to make your way back to the Ratchathewi BTS station. Turn right out of the café and follow the alley. Turn right at the next junction, then after 30m turn right again at the T junction¹⁰ (notice the helpful road sign in the photo).

Step 2

Walk straight ahead for about 200m past the school on your right and metal-grilled homes on the left. Follow the road as it turns left.¹¹

Step 3

Walk about 100m to the crossroads.¹² Here turn right and follow the road straight ahead. Along the way there are interesting workshops such as bike repair shops and textile businesses. After 300m go straight over a crossroads. A further 200m will take you to the main road and the BTS station. Turn left and you will be back at the station exit where you started from.

Map

Wrapping up

It is but a short distance from the hustle and bustle of the city to the tranquility of Baan Khrua. They are indeed worlds apart and long may it remain that way. I hope you’ve enjoyed this walk and will join me on another one soon.

Best wishes
Derek

May 18, 2025
Old Wooden Pier on Koh Samet

Introduction

Koh Samet’s beauty extends beyond its well known beaches. For photographers, the island offers unique, less explored locations perfect for capturing stunning images. This post guides you to one such hidden gem: an old pier that provides an ideal setting for long-exposure photography. Let’s dive straight in!

Directions

Getting to Koh Samet

To get to Koh Samet (or Samed) you need to get to Ban Phe (about 2 1/2 hours drive from Bangkok) on the Thai mainland. Ferries and small speedboats go from here to Nandan port on Koh Samet. There are different options depending on where you are staying on the island. You may find a hotel provides complimentary boat transfer or will organise it for you.

Where to stay

I stayed at the Green Bay Samed Resort on Ao Tin Khok which is ideally placed and also the staff there were very helpful organising a speedboat. The old pier is located at Ao Cho (or Chor) and it would definitely be best to stay on the east coast of Koh Samet particularly if you wish to catch the scene at sunrise. There are many beautiful beaches and plenty of hotel options on this side of the island.

The walk to the pier

Starting from Ao Hin Khok there is a lovely coastal path which follows the beaches and headlands south. It took me about 30 min walking in the dark to reach Ao Cho.

Exploring further

I did venture a bit further south along the coastal path as far as Ao Wong Duean where there is a floating pontoon pier which is obviously no good for this type of long exposure. That’s as far as I went but some maps do indicate there are more piers of some kind at beaches continuing on south.

Map

The map below shows part of the north east coast of Koh Samet.

Key

1️⃣ Green bay Samed Resort at Ao Hin Khok
2️⃣ The old wooden pier at Ao Cho

Wrapping up

I hope you found this post helpful and you get a chance to explore this area, managing to get some great long exposure photographs. Feel free to share your own experiences in the comments below.

Best wishes
Derek

May 16, 2025